A faucet that drips once a second wastes about 11,000 litres a year, leaves rust and lime stains in the basin and slowly eats the finish off your drain. It is also one of the easiest plumbing repairs in the house. Almost every drip comes from a worn seal inside the faucet, and the part costs $5 to $40. This guide helps you identify which of the four faucet types you have, walks through the repair for each, and tells you honestly when a $65 new faucet makes more sense than a $30 part.
Key takeaways
- Drip from the spout when the faucet is off = worn cartridge, seals or washer. Leak at the base or handle = worn O-rings.
- Four faucet types: cartridge (most single- and two-handle faucets today), ball (older single-handle), ceramic disc (premium single-handle) and compression (old two-handle with rubber washers).
- Always close both supply stops under the sink and plug the drain before you start.
- Take the old part to the store. Cartridges and ball kits are brand-specific.
- If the faucet is over 15 years old, the finish is pitted or parts are unavailable, a new faucet ($65–$250) is the better fix.
Step 1: Where is the leak?
| Where water appears | What is worn | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Dripping from the spout with the handle off | Cartridge, valve seat, springs or washer | Replace the cartridge/washer (this guide) |
| Around the base of the spout when running | Spout O-rings | Replace O-rings ($3–$8) |
| From under the handle when running | Cartridge O-rings or packing nut | Tighten packing nut or replace cartridge |
| Puddle in the cabinet under the sink | Supply line, stop valve or drain, not the faucet | Tighten or replace the supply line / P-trap |
| Weak, sputtering flow | Clogged aerator | Unscrew the aerator, soak in vinegar |
Step 2: Identify your faucet type
Cartridge
One or two handles that move smoothly and stop at a fixed point. Inside is a plastic or brass cylinder. The most common type sold in Canada today, including most single-lever faucets.
Ball
Single handle on a rounded cap that rotates and lifts. Inside is a slotted metal or plastic ball with springs and rubber seats. Common on 1980s–2000s faucets.
Ceramic disc
Single handle with a wide cylindrical body; the handle moves with very little effort. Two polished ceramic discs inside. Premium faucets; rarely leak, but seals under the disc wear.
Compression
Two handles that you turn several times and tighten down to stop the water. A rubber washer presses on a seat. Oldest type, still found in homes built before 1990.
Step 3: Prepare
- Close both supply stops under the sink (clockwise). If they will not turn or they leak when moved, close the main and plan to replace them (a $10 part and a common problem in older homes).
- Open the faucet to release pressure and drain the lines.
- Plug the drain with a rag or the stopper. Small screws love to disappear down the drain.
- Lay a towel in the basin to protect the finish from dropped tools.
- Line up parts on the counter in the order you remove them. Take a photo at each stage.
- Tools: Allen keys, Phillips and flat screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, slip-joint pliers, needle-nose pliers, white vinegar, silicone plumber's grease, and a rag to protect the finish.
Repair A: Cartridge faucet
- Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the screw (or the set screw under the lever with an Allen key) and lift the handle off.
- Remove the handle adapter or dome cap, then unscrew or unclip the retaining nut or clip that holds the cartridge.
- Note the orientation of the cartridge (a notch or tab usually points forward), then pull it straight up with pliers. If stuck, rock gently side to side; a cartridge puller exists for stubborn Moen-style ones.
- Take it to the store and buy the exact replacement. On a two-handle cartridge faucet, replace both while you are at it; the second will fail within months.
- Grease the new O-rings with silicone grease, insert in the same orientation, and reinstall the clip or nut, adapter and handle.
- Open the supply stops slowly and test. If hot and cold are reversed on a single-handle faucet, pull the cartridge and rotate it 180°.
Repair B: Ball faucet
Buy a repair kit for your brand: it includes the rubber seats, springs, cam, cam washer and O-rings. Some kits include a new ball. Kits cost $15–$30 and usually include the small spanner tool you need.
- Loosen the set screw under the handle and remove the handle.
- Unscrew the dome-shaped cap (use the rag to protect the finish) and lift out the plastic cam, the cam washer and the ball.
- Look into the body: two small rubber seats sit over springs. Lift them out with needle-nose pliers or a pencil tip.
- Drop in the new springs (narrow end up on most brands) and seats.
- Set the ball in place, lining up the slot with the pin in the body, then the new cam washer and cam (tab into the slot).
- Thread on the cap and tighten. Reinstall the handle. Use the spanner in the kit to adjust the cap tension if the handle leaks or is stiff.
- If the spout leaks at the base, lift the spout off and replace the two large O-rings on the body first.
Repair C: Ceramic disc faucet
- Remove the handle (set screw) and the decorative escutcheon cap.
- Unscrew the mounting screws holding the disc cylinder and lift it out.
- On the underside are three or four rubber seals sitting in the cylinder ports. Pry them out, clean the ports with vinegar and a soft brush, and install new seals (or a new cylinder if the ceramic is chipped).
- Reassemble. Turn the water on very slowly with the handle in the on position: a sudden blast of pressure can crack a ceramic disc.
Repair D: Compression faucet
- Pry off the handle cap, remove the screw and pull the handle off. If it will not budge, a handle puller ($10) saves the day.
- Unscrew the packing nut with a wrench, then unscrew the stem out of the body.
- At the bottom of the stem is a rubber washer held by a brass screw. Replace the washer (match the size; assorted packs cost $5), and replace the screw if corroded.
- Check the valve seat inside the body with a fingertip. If it is rough, either replace it with a seat wrench or smooth it with a seat-dressing tool; a new washer on a rough seat will leak in weeks.
- Replace the packing washer or O-ring on the stem if the handle was leaking.
- Grease the stem threads, reassemble, and tighten the packing nut snug (over-tightening makes the handle stiff).
Bonus: the five-minute aerator fix
If the faucet does not drip but sputters, sprays sideways or has weak flow, the problem is the aerator at the tip of the spout. Unscrew it by hand (or with pliers and a rag), take it apart, soak the parts in white vinegar for 30 minutes, brush out the screen and reassemble. Newer faucets have recessed cache aerators that need a small plastic key, often included in the box or available for $2.
Repair or replace?
| Repair makes sense when… | Replace makes sense when… |
|---|---|
|
|
A new single-handle bathroom faucet with a ceramic cartridge starts at $65, and swapping it takes about an hour. It also gives you a WaterSense 1.2 gpm aerator, which cuts water use by a third compared with older 2.2 gpm faucets.
Replace it with something you will love
Single-hole, centerset, widespread and wall-mount bathroom faucets in chrome, matte black and brushed gold. Delivered across Ontario, free on orders over $600.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my faucet drip after I turn it off?
The seal that stops water inside the faucet is worn: a cartridge, ceramic-disc seal, ball seat or compression washer, depending on the faucet type. Replacing that part stops the drip.
How much does it cost to fix a leaky faucet?
DIY: $5–$40 in parts. A plumber in Ontario typically charges $150–$250 for a faucet repair, which is often more than a new mid-range faucet.
Can I fix a dripping faucet without turning off the water?
No. Removing the cartridge or stem opens the supply line. Close the stops under the sink first, or the main shut-off if the stops do not work.
Are faucet cartridges universal?
No. Take the old cartridge to the store or note the faucet brand and model. Kodaen, Moen, Delta, Kohler and others each use different cartridges, and even one brand may use several.
Why does the faucet leak at the base?
The O-rings between the spout and the faucet body are worn. Remove the spout, replace the O-rings, grease them with silicone grease and reassemble.
How long does a bathroom faucet last?
A quality faucet lasts 15–20 years or more, with a cartridge replacement somewhere in the middle. Budget faucets with plastic bodies often fail within 5–8 years.
